Day 7: Saint Lucia by Land & Sea

Thursday, Feb 5, 2015

Deepa is not at the omelet station. I order my “usual,” but her replacement puts the arugula in right away and it's all wilted by the time it's done. Oh no! Hopefully she's back tomorrow.

While we're enjoying our breakfast it starts raining! On vacation! In the Caribbean! On a cruise ship! That is just wrong!

Huh. Never mind ... by the time we're through with breakfast the rain has stopped, puddles on the deck the only proof it ever happened. 

Our tour meets at 8:30 so we head down a bit later and there is practically no wait this time. We are met right at the terminal by Spencer Ambrose's daughter Shequana who takes us over to him. For the past few weeks we'd e-mailed him several times to confirm our plans, but when we remind him today he says “the plan has changed” and “he'll talk to us later.” 

Of course, later never happens and we reluctantly set out on the Land & Sea tour instead of the combination tour we'd asked about. In hindsight, this might have been for the best and the tour itself is amazing, but I would've really liked to have been told about it upfront instead of finding out on the dock with no time to research other options. 

The tour starts of at the dock with Spencer making a string of heated phone calls, while directing the different groups onto their respective boats. We end up on his own boat and the calls continue as he steers us out of the harbor.

I'm having a blast getting bounced around, but after a while I notice Sandy grimacing, gripping the seat; at first I think she's feeling seasick, but realize quickly the jarring is hurting her back so I motion for Spencer's daughter and she arranges for Sandy to sit comfortably in the back of the boat. 

Some people were bouncing on the waves more than we were ...


We pass by Bat Cave, a small crevice in the mountain that's home to hundreds of bats.



It's hard to get a good look at them, but we could hear them squeaking from the boat.


The Soufrière harbor


Our first real stop is the town of Soufrière, where we are split up into several vans to visit the drive-in volcano. Neptune, our driver, is great. He stops and picks up St. Lucia bananas for us that are much sweeter than the ones we have at home. Later he also gets us a coconut pattie that is quite tasty.

When we reach the volcano we have to choose; either tour the volcano, or take a sulfur mud bath. No need to ask me twice … I'll wallow in the mud, please!

Overview of the volcano with the sulfur steam vents on the top right.

Even with the car doors closed we can smell the sulfur in the air. No wonder the French named the town Soufrière, for 'sulfur in the air.' If you've never smelled sulfur, I'm sorry to tell you that it smells like rotten eggs and bad farts. And when those car doors opened ... oh boy!

We strip down to our bathing suits, then Shequana (who was super sweet) helped us into the amazing thermal sulfur bath. Even on a warm day the hot water feels really, really good.



After relaxing for a few minutes we reluctantly got out and went on to the next step: applying the mud! Yessss!!!!

The sulfur infused mud is believed to have many restorative properties and not wanting to miss out on any rejuvenating effects I went to town on the mud bucket. Several random strangers stopped to compliment me on my handiwork! 



Time for the sun to dry things out.


The first step in removing the now mostly dry mud cake is getting back in the thermal pool. Yay! I could have spent all day lounging in that water. Too bad it's hard to see if you've missed a spot in the dark water, plus when you get out tiny black particles cling to every hair on your body.

Which brings us to the next step: the outdoor cold water showers that put out a slow trickle of water only to stop, then spurt out a handful, before sputtering and failing again. What can you do but laugh?

Marginally cleaner we sit down in the now padded down van with our towels wrapped around us until we reach our next stop, the Toraille waterfall.



I'm quite paranoid about getting hit in the head with debris coming over the falls, but for this special occasion I let myself get pelted in the head in an effort to remove the leftover mud.



Local vendors line the road and tout their wares, including varieties of rum, banana ketchup, baked goods and crafts.


We drive to a banana plantation where Neptune explains the life cycle of bananas and its history on the island.


Yum! I have a sudden craving for bananas ...


After that it's back to the boat, except it's not there yet and the sun is sweltering so a few of us walk back to hide out in the shade. I quickly get antsy and take advantage of the time to take some pictures of the small harbor.

  

 Local youths hanging out at the dock smoking.


Once everyone is back aboard, we jet off to Jalousie Beach nestled at the foot of the Pitons. They also provide us with a traditional Creole lunch of cole slaw, yellow plantains, potato salad, rice, garlic noodles, and jerk chicken. All of which was quite good. We also get to sample piton beer, which Sandy is surprised to enjoy and I barely tolerate.



I was going to hold off on sampling the rum punch until after I'd snorkeled, but Sandy decides to get a taste and quickly passes her cup to me. She says there isn't a lot of alcohol in it, but after one sip I know to save the rest for when I get back. We find out later it's 160 proof!

The entire left side of the beach is taken up by the Sugar Beach Viceroy Resort, leaving just a few run down public loungers for the hordes of tourists deposited at the dock. We luck out and manage to snag a pair in the shade when the people next to us leave within minutes of our arrival.



Before hitting the water, I walk around to get some pictures of the beach.

Loungers on the resort side.


Crystal clear, tranquil water.


Note: As usual, I took too many pictures so I will post the underwater pictures in a separate post.

One of the locals has a kayak filled with straight from the tree tropical fruit. My mouth waters just looking it!


For a mere $5 he cuts up a little container for us with papaya, passion fruit, star fruit, rose apple(?), sugar cane and tamarind. This goes against everything you've heard about buying pre-cut fruit from roadside vendors, but I'm a sucker for tropical fruit and "other people were doing it" (haha best excuse ever). I guess we won't know for a day or two if it was a bad idea ...


If nothing else, it tasted amazing! I love passion fruit! And who knew starfruit could taste like this?! Amazing. The rose apple was nice too and had a very mild, peachy flavor. Sugar cane is unbelievably sweet and I chewed my piece down to nothing all too quickly. Sometimes I wonder why I eat junk food when nature provides us with delicious snacks like these.

UNESCO World Heritage Site: the Pitons seen from the boat (click link for more information on what makes this area so special)


The uber exclusive Jade Mountain Resort, where for several thousand dollar per night you can let yourself be pampered. I'll admit it doesn't look like much in this picture, but Google changed my mind: Jade Mountain Resort.


The ride back is more leisurely, although we're still flying at times. We stop by various exclusive hotels like Jade Mountain, the small fishing villages Anse La Raye and Canaries, Marigot Bay harbor, and the Lady Slipper, a sea arch featured in Pirates of the Caribbean.
  


Brave little boys jump down into the water from great heights and swim over to the boat to collect tips from tourists. I can't resist giving the littlest one a dollar; too little to do any jumping himself, he proudly told us about his (not much) older brother jumping down from the very top for us. I've placed a red mark pointing to his brother halfway down the rock; another boy has just started his jump over to the left.



After a day out on the water enjoying free flowing rum and Piton beer some of our tour mates are more than slightly intoxicated and think everything is hilarious. I wonder if they'll remember St. Lucia at all when they sober up ...

At last, there's the Valor docked in the capitol city, Castries.



Another wacky caution sign


Back on the ship we wait to watch sail away, but a whole bunch of people are missing and the pier runners are getting quite an earful. It's more than 30 minutes late by the time we push off from the dock.



And off we go!


Again, I had lots of plans (like the bachata dance class), but I smell faintly of farts and my hair looks like I stuck my finger in the socket …


After showering for what seems like an eternity and ripping out half of my hair while trying to untangle the knots the wind put in my hair, I get to dress up again; today is the second elegant night!

All dolled up, we walk down to the promenade where I have a field day with the pro-photographers as they snap my pictures in front of all kinds of backgrounds.

It's like playing Twister: face left, now turn your right foot to the left, bend the other knee -- but not that far -- and lean forward without bending your waist, then fan your finger and angle your wrist to the right while you dip your chin just so as you look over the opposite shoulder.

 In front of the grand staircase backdrop.


It's late by the time we sit down to dinner (again next to the window, lucky us) and I bravely order the escargots only to quickly pass my plate to Sandy. Snails can't possibly be meant to be eaten!? Gah, just the texture .... 

The Caesar salad is very yummy and I enjoy my grilled chicken dinner. For desert Sandy has a baked Alaska while I am defenseless against the warm melting chocolate cake.

Raoul left us a towel elephant tonight: it is the bomb! Seriously, can we take Raoul home? He spoils us so!



Tomorrow: St Kitss … fingers crossed we'll find some drunken monkeys!

(click link for short BBC documentary about the alcoholic monkeys)


Breakfast: Lido Deck Buffet and Omelet Station
Snack: assorted snacks during tour
Lunch: provided during tour

Dinner: Lincoln Dining Room


~ ~ Please continue to part II for the snorkeling pictures  ~ ~ 




2 comments:

  1. Hello sweethearts,

    I just looked at the monkey documentary. Very funny!
    I looked sulfriere up in my French dictionary and it means sulfur mine too.
    The sulfurbath looks quit murky. But I can see that the mud was not wasted on you.
    I finally know what a mudCat looks like!!!!
    I have a very good dictionary but it doesn't know the word antsy. Did you make it up Cat?
    Funny what you say about the starfruit.They sell it here too, but it tastes like nothing and is mostly used for decoration.
    Your hair looks very strange! You look like a goblin!
    What a contrast with the next picture. You look incredibly.
    I know what you mean about the escargots. As if your eating a rubber tire.
    How on earth can someone make a towel elephant.
    Love and xxx

    Joeve

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  2. Yeah, I remember having star fruit in Holland and not liking it, but then it wasn't any better in the States so I assumed that's how they always tasted ... too bad we can't get the good ones here.

    Haha, I didn't make it up! Antsy = restless/impatient

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